This was a wiring job I did for a new office at Home Tops in Whitewater. When I opened this closet, that large phone system PBX (big gray box) was humming along but hadn’t been used in many years so who knows how much electricity that wasted. I also worked with AT&T to bring in fiber internet and phone and wired that into their current phone system. It was especially satisfying to hall out all of the unused electronics, pull down that old plywood mounting board and mount a nice mini rack in it’s place.
Insert the key into the business end of the knob and turn it one way or the other, doesn’t matter which way.
Use something hard like a flat head screw driver (or assuming you have a kit, use the included tool) to push this pin in.
Once pressed, slide off the knob housing.
This next part can be kind of tricky. The cylinder in there has a clip that retains all of the springs for the pins. In order to slide it out of the knob housing, these springs must be compressed. You have to simultaneously compress them while you slide the entire cylinder assembly out.
Now it’s time to remove the Jesus clip. This is hard to do without the right tool. Notice how my tool catches each end of the clip. I roll the tool around it to pry it.
Slide in your key that works to unlocks it.
Line the cylinder up with the follower bar and slide your the spring housing over and onto it. Be careful not to lose any of those springs or top pins in there because if you do this wrong, they will go flying everywhere.
Dump those old pins like you’re going off to college.
Now we need to setup your keying. Below I’ve written down the two keys I’m keying this lock to. There’s a master key and an tenant key. Our lock doesn’t know the difference between the two, they are just two different keys that need to work with one lock. Noticed I’ve stacked up the numbers for each.
The first pin to be dropped into each hole will be the smaller of the two numbers in each stack. I underlined those in red.
The second pin to be dropped in will be the master pin. This will be the pin that makes up the difference of the two numbers in each stack. I wrote each of these numbers on the very bottom.
My cylinder with the bottom pins installed.
Slide in one of your keys (I chose the master key here) and test to make sure the correct pins are lining up flush with the top. In this case, pins 1, 2, 4 & 5 are flush.
Here I add a master pin size #2 to hole 3 to make that flush as well.
Now that you’ve added master pin(s), be careful when you slide the key back out. If you go too fast, the master pins will pop out and onto the floor to never be seen again.
Slide in your second key (mine being the tenant key) Hole 3 is still flush (and has a master pin #2 on top) but holes 1, 2, 4 & 5 will need their master pins to make them flush as well. You’ll need to be careful here again as any master pins will just be resting up there.
Here I’m adding pins #4, #3, #0 (nada) and #2 to holes 1, 2, 4 & 5.
I’ve tested both of those keys and I’m ready to put the spring housing back on. Be careful with this part because if you didn’t properly test that your keys work, you will lock yourself out of opening this again so unless you know how to pick a lock, you’ll be screwed.
Make sure that you slide it on sideways. If you don’t do this, your springs will start falling into the holes prematurely and you will have a big mess on your hands.
Spin the cylinder back into place and listen to the satisfying sound of all of the springs and top pins properly falling into their holes.
Put your Jesus clip back on. Test with both sets of keys again.
Find the spot in the knob housing where you can slide the assembly back into.
Compress the springs and slide it in.
Line it up with the retaining pin and slide your knob housing back on.
Get it on there as far as you can. Finally, insert the key and turn it to lock it into place.
That’s it! Test everything once more and you’ll be all set.